Rabbit Care Tips matter whether you’ve just brought a floppy-eared bundle home or you’ve kept rabbits for years. Rabbits are deceptively simple-looking pets but have precise needs—diet, housing, social time, and dental care all matter. From what I’ve seen, owners who get the basics right avoid most common problems. This guide covers rabbit care essentials: diet, health checks, habitat setup, grooming, behavior, and troubleshooting—practical stuff you can use tonight.
Basic rabbit care: the foundations
Start with three priorities: food, safe space, and companionship. Think of these as the skeleton of your rabbit’s day-to-day life.
Diet — hay, greens, pellets
Hay is everything. Unlimited grass hay (timothy, orchard, meadow) should be free-choice for adult rabbits. It keeps digestion moving and wears down teeth. For more on rabbit biology, see rabbit anatomy and behavior on Wikipedia.
- Hay: unlimited, highest-quality grass hay.
- Fresh greens: 1–2 cups per 2 lb bodyweight daily (leafy herbs, romaine, cilantro).
- Pellets: small amount—about 1/8–1/4 cup per 5 lb bodyweight for adult rabbits; more for kits under guidance.
- Treats: minimal—no more than 1–2 tablespoons per day of fruit or commercial treats.
Water and feeding tips
Always provide fresh water in a heavy bowl or bottle. Clean it daily. If your rabbit stops eating hay or water, consider it an emergency—call your vet.
Housing & habitat: indoors vs outdoors
Rabbits do best indoors where temperature and predators are controlled. They need room to hop—far more than a small cage.
Indoor setup
- Floor space: let rabbits roam in a rabbit-proofed room or use a large x-pen.
- Resting area: hide box or covered bed for security.
- Litter box: rabbits can be litter-trained using paper-based or wood-pellet litters.
Outdoor setup (if necessary)
If kept outdoors, use a secure hutch elevated off the ground with a weatherproof run. Check local climate—rabbits don’t do extreme heat or cold well.
Comparing housing options
| Option | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|
| Indoor room/free-roam | Social, safe, climate-controlled | Needs rabbit-proofing |
| Large pen | Controlled area, easy to manage | Less freedom than full roam |
| Outdoor hutch | Less space required indoors | Risk of predators, weather stress |
Grooming and dental care
Rabbits groom themselves, but they still need help—especially during molting season when fur ingestion can cause hairballs.
- Brushing: weekly for most, daily for long-haired breeds.
- Nail trims: every 4–6 weeks (or by a pro).
- Teeth: rabbits’ teeth grow constantly—provide hay and wooden chew toys to prevent overgrowth.
Watch for signs: drooling, reduced appetite, or wet chin can signal dental trouble—get a vet check.
Health checks and vet care
Routine vet care keeps small issues from becoming big problems. Find an exotic-pet or rabbit-savvy veterinarian.
- Annual checkups (more often for seniors).
- Vaccinations where recommended locally—check regional guidance.
- Spay/neuter: strongly recommended to prevent behavior issues and health risks.
For reliable veterinarian guidance, review resources from the American Veterinary Medical Association.
Emergency signs
- Refusal to eat for more than 6–8 hours
- Labored breathing, lethargy, bleeding
- Sudden collapse or seizures
Understanding rabbit behavior
Rabbits are prey animals—so they often hide pain. What I’ve noticed: subtle changes in posture or appetite are the first clues.
- Thumping = alarm or frustration.
- Binkying (happy jumps) = joy—let them have space to express it.
- Chewing furniture = need for enrichment and dental wear.
Socialization is key. Rabbits thrive with companionship—either from people who interact daily or a bonded rabbit companion (introduced carefully).
Exercise and enrichment
Rabbits need several hours of gentle to moderate exercise daily. Provide tunnels, chew toys, and hiding boxes. Rotate enrichment to keep things interesting.
DIY toy ideas
- Cardboard boxes with holes
- Wrapped toilet paper rolls with hay inside
- Untreated wood blocks
Common problems & simple fixes
- Soft stools: often diet-related—add hay, reduce sugary treats.
- Undesirable chewing: rabbit-proof cords, provide chew toys.
- Litter accidents: try different litter locations and positive reinforcement.
When in doubt, take photos and call your vet—timely action saves lives.
Resources and further reading
Great, trustworthy resources I use: the House Rabbit Society for care and behavior guides and Wikipedia for species background. These help deepen knowledge beyond day-to-day tips.
FAQs
How often should I feed my rabbit? Adults should have unlimited hay, daily fresh greens, and a measured small amount of pellets. Avoid overfeeding treats.
Can rabbits live alone? They can, but many do better with a bonded companion or consistent human interaction to meet social needs.
How do I rabbit-proof my house? Hide cords, block small spaces, protect furniture corners, and supervise initial free-roam time.
Key takeaways: prioritize hay, safe space, bonding, and routine vet care. Little changes—better hay, a hide box, a new toy—often produce big improvements in wellbeing.
Frequently Asked Questions
Adult rabbits should have unlimited grass hay, daily fresh greens in measured amounts, and a small portion of pellets; treats should be minimal.
Rabbits can live alone but often do better with a bonded rabbit companion or consistent, daily human interaction to meet social needs.
Loss of appetite is an emergency; contact a rabbit-savvy veterinarian immediately—do not wait more than 6–8 hours.
Hide electrical cords, block small gaps, protect furniture edges, supervise free-roam sessions, and provide safe chew toys.
Vaccination recommendations vary by region; consult a local veterinarian or the AVMA guidance for what’s advised in your area.